Nutrients and beauty for the skin: science and regulation

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THE DIET AND THE SKIN
With adequate nutrition, the physiological functions of both the dermis and epidermis are well maintained, leading to an aesthetically pleasant skin. On the contrary, when nutrition is not adequate, effects on the skin are readily apparent, with a less pleasant appearance. For instance, it has been demonstrated that a lack of essential fatty acids (EFA) increases epidermal permeability and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) (1), thus making the skin look also less hydrated and radiant. Indeed, nutritional deficiency and specific nutrient inadequacy (or excess) can all negatively affect the skin and thus beauty. In fact, several vitamins, minerals, and fatty acid deficiencies cause obvious cutaneous symptoms, and some deficiencies may also be secondary to skin disease or stress. For example, it is well known that skin inflammation increases the need for particular nutrients like protein and folic acid. The skin depends on nutrition.
In order to achieve beauty objectives, it is thus important to meet nutrient requirements. Moreover, in some cases, research is investigating whether intake above requirements, or of nutrients or substances for which requirements have not been established, may lead to positive effects on appearance. In the current EU regulatory framework, if such effects comply with Reg. (EC) n. 1924/2006 (2) or, if beyond the scope of the regulation (“beauty claims”), are based on generally available scientific evidence, they can be used in commercial communication to consumers. It is thus possible to use the array of evidence to explain to consumers which nutrients, and how, in food or food supplements can help maintain or improve the beauty of their skin. This article will briefly summarise information on selected nutrients and substances and the effects on skin, in the context of European regulations.